Wednesday, 4 March 2015

Milan Fashion Week - Favorites and Thoughts

This morning I read an article at Business of Fashion (BoF) called Milan's Ugly Beauty. It talks about the staged "uglyness", like for example greasy and messy hair, that is used more and more by designers (and certainly not only those showing in Milano). Certain brands, labels or designers have always done this, because it was their thing from the start, or because their clients belong to a more edgy minded group.



The article however isn't refering to them, but to the emerging trend, to those that have newly adapted it, or to houses that hired more, let's call them daring, designers in order to refresh the image. I've already talked about how boring I found most of the New York Fashion Week, because to me, it was just more of the same, slightly different, but nonetheless, all too familiar, all to much just a rehash of things we've already been wearing for what now feels like decades. Oh hello 60ies, 70ies, 80ies. And basically, the article argues, that this "staged uglyness" is a show trick used to try and mask the fact that they aren't presenting anything new, to sell something as fresh, that really isn't. It goes on to ask and explore the question "Whom are they now trying to sell to?".

I also like their train of thought that broadening the range of what is acceptable is, by large a good thing. Whilst there are some things I believe should remain plainly in the realm of the Unseen, I also love the idea of IDIC (Infinite Diversity Infinite Combinations - Oh, hello closet Trekkie).

I don't agree however with the article in regards to the latest Gucci collection, personally I didn't like it presented like this one bit, but then again, I never found the "Forever 63" way of Amy Farrah Fowler any kinds of desirable for myself and adding sheer to it doesn't change that.

Anyways, you can find the full article here and now onto my favorites.
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Questa mattina ho letto un articolo su Business of Fashion, intitolato "Milan's Ugly Beauty" (La Brutta Bellezza di Milano). Parla della messa in scena della bruttezza, per esempio i capelli che sembrano spettinati e sporchi, la quale viene usata sempre più dagli stilisti (e certamente non solo quelli presenti a Milano). Alcuni brand, griffe e stilisti l'hanno sempre fatto, perché fa parte del loro stile sin dall'inizio e perché i loro clienti fanno parte di un gruppo più avantgarde o edgy.

Questo articolo però non si riferisce a loro, ma a quelli che lo hanno adottato di recente, o le case che hanno assunto stilisti, chiamiamoli audaci, per rinnovare l'immagine. Ho già detto che ho trovato in gran parte noioso ciò che è stato presentato durante la settimana della moda a New York, perché per me era soltanto la solita roba, un pochino diversa magari, ma troppo familiare, solo un remake di quella che ho già visto troppe volte, quella che portiamo da... ormai sembrano decadi. Ciao anni '60, '70, '80. In pratica l'articolo dice che quella bruttezza sceneggiata è un trucco per mascherare il fatto che non inventano niente di nuovo, ma fanno sembrare nuovo e originale quello che in realtà non lo è. Poi prosegue con la domanda "A chi esattamente provano a vendere questi vestiti?"

Mi piace anche il loro pensiero, che ampliare il range di ciò che è accettabile nella moda e cosa si può indossare, sia a grandi linee una cosa positiva. Sebbene ci siano cose che secondo me devono sempre rimanere nel reame dell'Invisibile, mi piace anche la loro idea di IDIC (Infinite Diversity Infinite Combinations) che possiamo tradurre come Diversità Infinite, Infinite Combinazioni.

Non sono però d'accordo con loro riguardo alla nuova collezione di Gucci, personalmente non mi è piaciuta più di tanto presentato così, ma dall'altra parte, non mi è nemmeno mai piaciuto lo stile "Forever 63" di Amy Farrah Fowler e aggiungere pezzi trasparenti non cambia la mia opinione.

Comunque, qui potete trovare l'articolo intero e adesso guardiamoci alcuni dei miei look preferiti.
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Heute morgen habe ich einen Artikel auf Business of Fashion mit der Schlagzeile "Milan's Ugly Beauty" (Die haessliche Schoenheit von Mailand) gelesen. Der Artikel handelt von der inszenierten, gewollten Haesslichkeit auf dem Laufsteg, wie z.B. Frisuren die wie ungekaemmt und ungewaschen aussehen, der sich mehr und mehr Designer bedienen (und mit Sicherheit nicht nur die in Mailand). Einige Designer, einige Labels haben das ja schon immer getan, entweder weil es eben ihr Ding vom Start weg war, eben weil sie ihre Kunden eher in den Reihen von etwas mehr Avantgardliebenden Randgruppen haben.

Der Artikel bezieht sich aber weniger auf diese als vielmehr auf das Phaenomen, dass diese gewollte Haesslichkeit salonfaehig wird, und auf die Designer die es seit neustem tun, oder die Modehaeuser, die Designer, nennen wir sie mal wagemutig, angeheuert haben um das Image aufzupeppen. Ich habe ja bereits davon gesprochen, dass ich die New York Modewoche im Grossen und Ganzen eher langweilig fand, weil vieles fuer mich eben einfach nur mehr vom selben war. Klar ein klein wenig veraendert, andere Muster vielleicht, aber trotzdem all zu vertraut, all zu sehr einfach nur eine Wiederaufarbeitung von Kleidern die wir schon gefuehlte Jahrzehnte tragen. Hallo 60er, 70er, 80er. Und der Artikel argumentiert, dass diese gewollte Haesslichkeit nicht vielmehr ist als ein Trick. Um zu ueberspielen, dass nichts wirklich Neues angeboten wird, um Altes als Frisch zu verkaufen. Dann wird die Frage aufgeworfen "An wen wollen sie denn nun eigentlich verkaufen?"

Ich mag den Gedankengang, dass die Erweiterung dessen, was modemaessig salonfaehig ist, eine Gute Sache ist. Obwohl ich weiterhin fest davon ueberzeugt bin, dass es Dinge gibt, die besser auf Ewigkeiten in der Dimension des Unsichtbaren bleiben, so mag ich doch auch die Idee "Unendliche Mannigfaltigkeit in Unendlicher Kombination" (mal eben schnell als Trekkie geoutet).

Allerdings in einem Punkt bin ich anderer Meinung. Mir persoenlich hat die letzte Gucci Kollektion auf diese Art praesentiert gar nicht gefallen. Aber ich war auch noch nie ein Fan des Stiles "Forever 63" von Amy Farrah Fowler und da ein paar transparente Stuecke mit reinzunehmen aendert da nix dran.

Den Artikel koennt Ihr hier lesen und das sind einige der Looks die mir gefallen haben:


Antonio Marras

Dolce & Gabbana

Dolce & Gabbana

Dolce & Gabbana

Tod's

Blumarine

Fausto Puglisi

Gabriele Colangelo

Giamba

Jil Sander

Jil Sander

Fendi

Fendi

Fendi

Max Mara

Sportmax

Marni

Versace
DSquared



You can find the Gucci collection on Style.com - the link doesn't lead there directly because I think it might be considered NSFW.


All images from style.com


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Tuesday, 3 March 2015

How to: Wear Culottes Year Around - The Remix Compendium I

Like it or not, culottes are here to stay for at least another year, if we are to trust the so called "runway trends". They have made an appearance in many fashion shows for Fall/Winter 2015/16 so far and I am sure we will also see them on the Paris runways. So I think it is fitting that they are going to kick off my new semi regular series.

I've been (purposely) remixing a lot of my clothing in the outfits I've shown you on this blog, because that is really what I do in my daily life. By now, I've accumulated enough different versions of styling one piece to start this series of "How to wear something X different funky ways" posts. 




One thing that has me curious in regards to that is if anyone would even notice, would I not mention it with the respective backlink each time. I ought to hold a survey. My idea is that no one really does. That even regular readers (love you!) forget an outfit I showed after about two months, unless it was very spectacular.

So anyway today I am going to start off with the pair of black culottes I acquired in spring last year. I love wearing them, they are comfortable and thanks to the wide cut they are ideal for warmer temperatures. Having said that, I know styling them can be tricky. You might have to try on different types before finding the ideal cut for you, as all culottes are not created equal. I was lucky with this pair, but I've tried others that were a catastrophe.


Simple formulas to style culottes:



Basically, I'm doing to my culottes what I'd do to a midi skirt. (Tweet this!)


That is:

- wear them with a tailored button down shirt to create a more classic, ladylike look
- wear them with the shirt or blouse tucked in to give some shape
- wear them with sneakers or slip-ons for a casual, sporty vibe
- wear them with heels to elongate the silhouette, since I am on the small side
- wear them with knee high heeled boots for autumn/winter
- wear them with tights and heels for autumn/winter
- plan to take pictures of them paired with a funky crop top.



Click for original thread

Click for original thread

Click for original thread

Click for original thread

Click for original thread


Click for original thread


Are you a culotte owner yet?


Outfit Sources:

Culottes - Mango
other - see respective posts





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Sunday, 1 March 2015

Black Hole Sun - Ralph Lauren Sunglasses, a Black Shirt Dress, Boots and Gold Foil Leggings

I have been searching for a pair of futuristic seeming visor sunglasses like these for what accounts for ages in the lifespan of a fashion trend. Of course, if we measure it compared to the in lifespan of a sun/star, then it sort of didn't even happen.


Ralph Lauren visor sunglasses, black shirt dress, black turtleneck, black over-the-boots, black gold foil leggins, graffiti wall


Saturday, 28 February 2015

London Fashion Week FW15 Favorites

Erdem


Without much ado today, here are some of my favorites from London Fashion Week for Fall/Winter 2015/2016. Again, names for more in depth presentations have been taken.

Wishing you all a funky weekend.

Wednesday, 25 February 2015

Always Good for a Smile - Stella Jean MFW FW15

She is hands down one of my favourite designers, simply for the sheer joy alone her colorful clothing with its bright patterns transmits. Looking at one of her shows, or at her garments, is always good for a pick me up, for inducing a smile. I cannot imagine being grumpy wearing them.

It is true that what we saw at the show today at Milan Fashion Week FW15 was a bit of a hodgepodge and I would not wear a large number of these looks as they were presented today. Then again, I just might. I think however, that the single pieces are outstanding, beautiful and happiness inducing and combined in other ways, I would certainly enjoy strutting them around. A bit like a peacock...



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